Parking:
Parking is available in two
lots near the park entrance on the Robert Moses State
Parkway. There are both northbound and southbound lots.
If one is full, pass it, turn around and try the lot for
the opposite direction. For the northbound lot, there is
a pedestrian bridge allowing pedestrians to easily cross
the parkway. There is parking for nearly 80 cars.
Seasons:
Devil's Hole State Park is open year-round. Sections of
the gorge trail may not be accessible (or safe) during
times of heavy rain or snow. Best season to visit:
Autumn for the foliage and fishing. Summer to get away
from the tourist crowds at the Falls. Hours: Dawn to dusk. Admission: Free.
Devil's Hole State Park encompasses 42
acres of cleared and wooded land along the Niagara Gorge
just north of the Whirlpool. The park is located along
the lower reaches of the Whirlpool Rapids, a dangerously
turbulent stretch of the Niagara River downstream from
Niagara Falls.
Here the water starts to calm from the notorious Class V
whitewater upstream, creating exhilarating waves for
jet-skis and highly oxygenated water for large sport
fish. In fact the fishing here, especially for
trout
and salmon, is so spectacular, major fishing
journals and television shows have called this one of
the premiere freshwater fishing locations in the
country.
From the entrance off of the Robert
Moses State Parkway the level lawns and scattered picnic
tables overlook the tree-covered gorge, white water, and
the massive power plant below. A single stone stairway,
in dreadful condition, leads 300 feet down into Devil's
Hole. Intimidating? Only if you are out of shape. Take
the journey. Devil's Hole is filled with beautiful
sights all the way down.
Devil's Hole refers to an interesting,
but certainly not unique geological formation. After the
last ice age a large creek once poured over the gorge
here joining the Niagara River. For the geologically
brief time this happened not only did it create a large
waterfall, separate from the great Niagara Falls, it
also began to erode a semicircular notch perpendicular
to the gorge. Since then the creek (named Bloody Run
for a horrifying
battle that once took place here) has diminished to
a seasonal trickle. In recent years almost all of the
flow has been blocked by masonry upstream from the park.
During the wet season, the small tributary seeps through
the bedrock, and even emerges halfway down the gorge.
Catch it right after heavy rain and you'll even see a
small waterfall.
Not only left are the clues to this
ancient tributary, but the mighty Niagara Falls, which
are now several miles to the south, once resided here
roughly 12,000 years ago. Here they left geological
footprints of their passage within the gorge. Numerous
pothole formations, gouged out by stones in the swirling
waters below the Falls, can be found within the bedrock
at the river bed. Other evidence can be found in the
water-eroded stones seen high up on the gorge. Walking
along the Niagara River and seeing these clues help us
to imagine what this section of the Gorge looked like
when the Falls were cutting their way through here.
The porous limestone rock layers that
makes up a great portion of the cliff wall here have
also formed caves as seeping water froze, expanded, and
split rocks from the inside. One such cave, the Cave of
Evil Spirits, is a 4 ft tall, 30 ft deep fissure in a
large block of dolostone just to the north of Devil's
Hole. Although many legends claim that the cave will
bring misfortune to all who enter it, it is most often
used as a hangout and drinking spot for locals and
students at the nearby Niagara University.
The moisture that Bloody Run saturates
Devil's Hole with, along with the shaded cliff-sides and
limited development within the Niagara Gorge, have
created a haven for a variety of plants and animals.
Rare mosses and ferns adorn the forest floors of the
gorge, while trees and their inhabitants flourish from
the adjacent and plentiful water and earth. Although
many of the plant species that inhabit the cove can be
spotted from the 410 crumbling steps that wind down it,
those that are out to see more can explore the cliff
sides as long as they are careful not to trample what
they find.
The rock outcroppings, slower water,
and abundance of fish in the Niagara at Devil's
Hole make this a frequented spot for birds, especially
gulls, who constantly shuffle for the best rocks in the
river. Waterfowl and other migratory species also make a
stop here to take advantage of the food and warmer
waters below the dam, making this an excellent
bird-watching location. The best seasons are in spring
for large raptors and waterfowl and in autumn for more
migratory species. Gulls seem to be around all-year.
An old rail-bed, that seems
dangerously close to the rapids, now serves as a trail
that connects the Devil's Hole steps to
Whirlpool State
Park to the south, and creates an excellent looping
trail. When hiking this trail, imagine the renaissance
of Niagara tourism in the 1920's when passengers
would brave the dangers of the rockslides and deadly
water, as they paid less than a dollar to ride this
close on a steel trolley. (Not only did rockslides kill
passengers and some crew on this line, but the resulting damage
led to its demise.)
Despite the intimidating name, and
proximity to certain death, the park is harmless for
those that play safe, and certainly should not be
avoided. The small sense of danger, coupled with the
tragic history that occurred here, add a little more
adventure to the typical Niagara attraction. Bring a
picnic, take your time enjoying the sights and sounds of
the river, and you can easily make a day of it.
Handicap accessibility:
Yes. The restrooms and overlook. Park in the southbound
lot. The gorge is not accessible. Pets: Household pets are allowed. They must be caged
or on a leash not more than 6 feet. They are not allowed
in the restroom and it is best not to let them swim in
the water. State Park amenities: Picnic tables; restrooms,
hiking trails, fishing, historic markers, scenic views. Swim: Swimming in the Niagara river at this park
is not allowed and can be highly dangerous. Boat launch: This park is not equipped with a boat
launch. For launching, visit
Fort
Niagara State Park or the public marina in Lewiston. Fishing: Devil's Hole State Park offers some of
the best fishing in the Niagara Region. Fisherman cast
from shore or boat down from the northern launches to
harvest massive
salmon and
trout amidst the grand sights of the gorge, rapids
and power plants. Winter steelhead fishing has become
increasingly popular and is probably the
reason for most winter visits to this park. The hike
down and then up the gorge can be grueling, so pack
light and bring a partner for safety.
Difficulty:
Difficult. Markings: Trails are well
established, but not labeled. Distance:
A 300 ft winding stone stairway down into the gorge,
which connects with the several mile long gorge trail. A
loop from Devil's Hole Parking area, down into the
gorge, back up at
Whirlpool State
Park
and back to
Devil's Hole is roughly 2.5 miles. Description:
The Ongiara Trail is an excellent opportunity to
experience Devil's Hole and neighboring Whirlpool State
Parks and get a good workout at the same time. for a
longer hike through these two parks, view the trail
guide on the
Whirlpool State
Park page.
1. Start at the gorge overlook at
Devil's Hole, and head down the stone stairway. There
are an estimated 410 steps heading down. They are
overgrown with weeds, crumbling and constant rock slides
morph and cover the trail. Watch your step and be
mindful of those making the climb up--their task is a
bit more grueling. When descending the stairs take note of the
different strata (rock layers) that make up the Niagara
gorge.
2. At the bottom, head left
(south) on the connecting trail. Many openings along the
way make for good views of the lower Whirlpool Rapids
and are often used by fishermen. Keep on this trail for
1.1 miles / 1.8 km. Sections of the trail are crumbling,
muddy or may be covered in fallen rocks or downed trees.
The State does little to maintain it. Be careful, carry
a first aid kit, and be sure to hike with a partner.
Stay clear of the water. The rapids here are extremely
dangerous and can be misleading. People have died here
by slipping in.
3. Reach the stairs at
Whirlpool State
Park. You can head up here, or you can
explore the shore and view the upper Whirlpool Rapids
upstream. The steps leading up are just as arduous as
those at Devil's Hole.
4. The Gorge Rim at
Whirlpool State
Park offers excellent views of the Whirlpool,
Aero Car, and gorge.
Travel on the path along the gorge heading North (right
if you are facing the river). Along the way the trail
merges with a closed lane of the Robert Moses State
Parkway. Follow this for roughly a mile back to the
Devil's Hole parking area.
Drag the map to move around and use the
Zoom Ladder on the right to zoom in.
Zooming in will show more points of interest. Click on
the icons for more information.
Niagara Falls carves out the
Niagara Gorge as it
recedes south. Around this time the
Falls was located in the Devil's Hole area.
For more History of the Falls itself, see
the
Niagara Falls Historical Timeline.
11,000 - 10,000
years ago
-
The ancient glacial Lake
Tonawanda covers a large portion of western
New York. One of its many outlets is Bloody
Run, which carried water over the Niagara
Gorge at Devil's Hole, creating a massive
waterfall, and carving out the namesake
notch in the gorge.
The ancient lake was fed by the waters of
Lake Erie whose water level, as the climate
warmed from the last ice age, began
dropping. The Niagara River quickly became
the dominant outlet between Lake Erie and
Lake Iroquois (now Lake Ontario),
rather than feeding Tonawanda and the lake
eventually dried up. Bloody Run, which
carved out the small notch, diminished
greatly before it had a chance to carve a
large gorge perpendicular to the Niagara.
Iroquois Nation
-
Seneca Indians used the
Devil's Hole as a passage to get to the
Niagara River.
This is one of the few natural paths down into the gorge.
Colonial America
-
By the 1760s the French and
British were well settled in the region, and
although their war continued in Europe,
their properties in the American colonies
were fairly at ease. The British controlled
the Niagara Portage on the American side,
which allowed supplies to be passed north
and south across land and up/down the
Niagara escarpment where the river's rapids
and falls prevented ship's passage. Initially
local Seneca did the grunt work for the
colonies--escorting and carrying the
supplies along the Portage by hand.
With better mapping of the
region, as well as expansion and development
of the trail systems and roads, the British
began replacing Indian couriers with
horse-drawn covered wagons, leaving hundreds
of young men unemployed and jaded. Indian
sentiments in the Great Lakes Region were
souring at this time, and unemployment was a
major catalyst in a crusade to rid the land
of the white man. Uprisings against British
settlements and forts were becoming more
common, and the safe transportation of
supplies to them became all the more crucial
to their ability to withstand these attacks.
The Portage became the link between many
forts in the Niagara region and was subject
to many assaults.
Devil's Hole Massacre
September 14, 1763
-
The man in charge of the
Niagara Portage was "Master of the Portage"
John Stedman. His governance over the trail
led to many improvements and changes in
employment of local Seneca. Not only was he
in charge of the Portage maintenance, but
also the safe and secure transportation of
important shipments.
One such shipment was led
by Stedman on September 14, 1763 from Fort
Schlosser in Niagara Falls en route north to
Fort Niagara to the north. As the convoy
traveled along the gorge rim near the
Devil's Hole cove they were ambushed by an
estimated force of 300 to 500 Seneca
Indians. Stedman escaped quickly, heading
back south to Fort Schlosser to obtain
reinforcements, but most of the convoy
personnel were either killed by arrow fire
or driven, along with the wagons and
animals, into the gorge at Devil's Hole. The
sounds of the battle were heard in nearby
Fort Grey in Lewiston, and the British
80th Regiment was dispatched as
reinforcements. Reinforcements made it about
a mile from Devil's Hole when they
themselves where ambushed and quickly
decimated. Although reports about survivors
vary, general consensus is that there were
three survivors of the massacre at Devil's
Hole: Stedman, a civilian worker, and a
young boy who was thrown from a supply wagon
before it was run off the cliff, who then
hid in bushes until it was over. Less than
10 soldiers of the reinforcements survived.
An estimated 134 of the British force were
killed, with only one Seneca injured.
Soldiers from Fort Schlosser arrived shortly
after the second ambush, but quickly
retreated to the fort after seeing the
aftermath. Days later they returned to
Devil's Hole only to find the wagons,
animals and most of the bodies in the cove
below, many of which had been scalped.
Descriptions of the scene were told of the
small tributary at Devil's Hole and were
said to have been saturated red with blood.
This is how the creek at Devil's Hole got
the name "Bloody Run."
The Devil's Hole Massacre was indeed a
horrifying event to happen to the colonies,
but it had the opposite effect the Seneca
were hoping for. Instead of driving the
white man from the region, the British
quickly reinforced their presence and took a
hard-line attitude towards future Indian
relations.
1887
-
Municipal park architects
Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux
devise a plan to establish several parks
along the Niagara River, including Devil's
Hole.
1895
-
The Niagara Gorge Belt Line
Railroad opened The
Great Gorge Route, carrying
passengers along the Niagara River from
Niagara Falls, NY to Lewiston, passing right
by Devils Hole. It quickly becomes one of
the most popular tourist attractions at
Niagara.
1927
-
Devil's Hole State Park
opens. It included more acreage than it does
today.
September 13, 1935
-
A major rock slide, one of
many that plagued the line, closes the
Niagara Gorge Belt Line Railroad
permanently.
1962
-
The north end of the park is
cut off by an access road, which eventually
leads to the newly built Robert Moses Power
Plant. Stone from the excavation of the
plant, its tunnels, and the road is dumped
onto the gorge in and around Devil's Hole.
2001
-
Two of the four lanes of the
Robert Moses State Parkway are closed (on a
trial basis) and designated as multi-use
trails. Diminishing tourism in the Niagara
region and decreased use of this scenic
byway allow for the closed.
The
Niagara Power Project, just north of
Devil's Hole State Park, harnesses the power
of the Niagara river as is tumbles over the
gorge wall and through the plant's massive
turbines. The "Project" is a combination of
underground canals that usher water from the
Niagara River upstream and stores it in a
1,900-acre reservoir. Water from the
reservoir is then sent through the
Lewiston Pump-Generating Plant's 12pump-turbines.
After the Lewiston Plant,
water is held in a 740-gallon bay where it
awaits the massive Robert Moses Power
Pant's 13 turbines as it takes water
down to the river below.
When it first opened in
1961, it was the largest hydropower plant in
the western world. It currently has a
generating capacity of 2.4 million
Kilowatts.