Ithaca Falls Natural Area

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Description

Ithaca Falls most definitely is the symbol of Ithaca, New York, a city settled within the crossroads of deep gorges, bordered by acclaimed colleges, and rife with manufacturing history. The waterfall itself is massive. Towering over 100 feet tall and stretching nearly 175 ft across at its base, it can fill the adjacent neighborhood and Cornell's western flank with a thunderous roar in spring. By autumn the frothy cascade slows and students take to the banks to read or practice photography amongst the turning leaves. This gem, like most urban waterfalls, was once exploited and nearly jeopardized by industrial pollution, but is now protected and open for the public to enjoy.

With towering sheer cliffs bordering the falls, the recently designated "Natural Area" that houses Ithaca Falls is an unexpected oasis within the city limits. Driving for your first time through Ithaca, and passing the waterfall, you almost don't believe what you see. In a single day, easily a hundred drivers will tap their breaks as they travel down Lake St, doing a double-take as they pass the falls. Those that have the time, get out and take the brief walk up to the falls. It's quick, easy, and can be breathtaking when the water level is high and the water is violent. Occasionally the irresistible sound of the plummeting water and the massive plunge pool below will attract swimmers. Not a good idea. Fall Creek's nearly 20 miles of watershed feeds Ithaca Falls with unpredictable currents that have already claimed the lives of several. Even when flow is moderate, the foamy water it stirs up can easily overcome a swimmer, and the froth makes visibility difficult.

There is a balance that must be struck at Ithaca Falls. It is accessible; probably one of the easiest, for its size, to get to in the Finger Lakes. It is also picturesque and takes on a new personality every season. In spring it gushes with power, while summer brings low flow—breaking up the cascade into sections and enhancing the character of the rock-face. Fall color is a must-see and the ice formations in winter can be colossal. It is a beautiful sight for gazes and cameras year-round, and it is comforting to be in its presence. But visitors must keep in mind the dangers and not underestimate the power held within the falling waters (or rocks). Ithaca Falls is open to the public by the City to be seen and experienced with caution.

History

The settlement that became Ithaca was founded on the flat at the south end of Cayuga Lake, a glacial lake formed by the deep gouging of the limestone bedrock by numerous massive glaciers. The lake's rock basin actually extends to the face of Ithaca Falls and the flat, in which the majority of the present city lies, is within the lake basin. Glacial rock and mud debris filled the south end thousands of years ago, creating the flat, and allowing the lake's rocky outline to surround the city, jutting out in the landscape and eroding over time to create several massive gorges.

Prior to pioneer settlers, the Cayuga Indians claimed the Ithaca area as hunting ground (the most well-known hunting camp being at the entrance to Cascadilla Gorge), only to be driven away during the American Revolution's Sullivan Campaign. After the American Revolutionary War, much of what is now Upstate New York was divided up to pay soldiers for their efforts. The settlement at Ithaca (then called Ulysses) continued to grow, boosted by the opening of the Erie Canal and then the Owego Railroad. As a manufacturing hub of the state, businesses in Ithaca cranked out industrial and commercial products, such as transmission hardware, appliances, and car parts.

In 1865, Cornell University was founded and the city's shift towards the education industry began. Many of Ithaca's present day landmarks are named after prominent Cornell and Ithaca College scholars, and many of the gorges and park properties at some point were acquired by these institutions or their alumni.

For a brief time the silent film industry began to take hold with at least one studio taking advantage of the dramatic landscape and accessibility Ithaca offered. Several films featured the waterfalls and cliffs of Ithaca's popular gorges. Eventually filmmakers made their base in Hollywood instead.

The Ithaca Gun Company began large-scale manufacturing of sporting shotguns and rifles in 1880. Their factory was a milling and machining complex situated over a small ravine next to Ithaca Falls. The company dammed the top of the falls and a large raceway diverted flow from Fall Creek through the factory's turbine, down the ravine, and back into the creek. In later years, the factory upgraded from mechanical mills to turbines that directly generated electricity to power modern equipment. Ithaca Guns began its life making inexpensive Remington knock-offs, but soon began innovating and enhancing the quality of their own models. Eventually they made quite a name for themselves with repeat customers and celebrity endorsements. Through military contracts during WWI and WWII, they hit it big and expanded their operations within the city. Milling gun barrels and gears became big business in Ithaca, and many people used that expertise in designing transmission components, which soon became a booming industry within the city too.

During its heyday, and when owning a gun in New York was more common than owning a car is today, models such as the Ithaca 37 Shotgun and Lefever rifles were household names. Eventually the need and the demand for household weaponry died down and the guns became more collector's items than tools. Ithaca Gun was eventually bought out and manufacturing was moved to Northern Ohio. The property, including what is now the Ithaca Falls Natural area, was donated to Cornell University, which surveyed the land and found dangerous contamination of the soil and groundwater. Decades of ammunition testing and materials dumping on the factory property resulted in it being designated as a national Superfund site, primarily because of lead contamination (older munitions were made of lead). Cornell then handed the land over to the city. The EPA cleaned up the site from 2000 to 2004, and in 2006 the City condemned the old factory buildings. 

Recently City and State funds have been allocated to demolish the old factory (although leaving the characteristic "Ithaca Gun" smokestack) and make way for townhomes and a small park/viewing platform (which is supposed to offer views of Cayuga Lake and Ithaca Falls). The cost of cleanup as well as the difficult geology of the site has caused many delays. We have no estimated completion date.

Hiking / Trails / Exploration

From the parking area to Ithaca Falls

Difficulty: Easy

Distance: Less than a quarter mile.

Markings: None.

Description: From the parking area, follow the dirt path down to the small park near the creek. A path then runs through a small wooded area into the creek bed. You are free to explore the creek bed or continue along the right side of the gorge towards Ithaca Falls. This pathway may not be usable in times of high water flow or when conditions are icy. Proceed with caution and at your own risk.

You may also view the falls from downstream at the Lake St bridge.

Photography tips

Zoom in — Don't just photograph the entire falls at once. There is so much going on with Ithaca Falls. It is like hundreds of little unique drops in one. Zoom in to specific parts to create unique photos.

Come back. — Don't limit your photography to one season or one time of day. Ithaca Falls changes drastically over time. Come back again later.

Links of Interest

Samponi Tribe History
Ithaca Gun Company
Historic Ithaca

Who to Contact

Ithaca Department of Public Works
Second Floor of City Hall
108 East Green Street, Room 202
Ithaca, NY 14850
Phone: (607) 274-6527
E-mail: kgehring@cityofithaca.org
Web: ci.ithaca.ny.us/departments/dpw/

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Interesting Stuff

The Stewart Avenue Bridge — You cannot see Ithaca Falls from the Stewart Avenue Bridge, which crosses Fall Creek just above the falls, but you can see the dam that caps it, as well as wonderful view across the Ithaca Valley. It's perfect for catching sunsets as well. Look upstream to see Forrest Falls.

Fences — The Stewart Avenue Bridge, as well as many other bridges over gorges in Ithaca, have been encapsulated in wire fencing. Why? A strategy in suicide prevention. Although this makes for more difficult photography, some holes have been cut through the fences to allow lenses to poke through.

Raceway — To the right of the small park near the roadside is the remains of the Ithaca Gun Factory's raceway that carried the water that powered the plant. The run is made from concrete and leads up to the turbine house  up the hill. This whole area is condemned and off limits.